At a Remote Scottish Pub, a Pint Worth Hiking 20 Miles

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Europe|At a Remote Scottish Pub, a Pint Worth Hiking 20 Miles

https://www.nytimes.com/2024/09/22/world/europe/britain-remote-pub-knoydart.html

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The Old Forge on the rugged peninsula of Knoydart is a community-owned meeting point for locals and visitors — at least those willing to trek across the wilderness.

A view of a large bay of water with several building visible along the coast in front of a backdrop of mountains.
Invernie, Scotland, on the shore of Loch Nevis, has no roads and very little cellphone service. Credit...Andy Buchanan/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

Isabella Kwai

By Isabella Kwai

Isabella Kwai visited Knoydart in 2021, where she had a pint at The Old Forge.

Sept. 22, 2024, 5:01 a.m. ET

The simple pleasure of a hot pub meal and a cold pint can be found just down the street for most people in Britain. Then, there is The Old Forge: perhaps the most remote pub on the mainland, lying at the end of a multiday wilderness hike through craggy mountains and glistening lochs.

Isolation is part of the charm that draws adventurers to the untamed landscapes and quieter lifestyle of Knoydart, a rugged peninsula on the west coast of Scotland. To get to its main settlement, Inverie — home to half of the peninsula’s 120 or so residents — travelers must churn over the waters of Loch Nevis from Mallaig or walk some 20 miles from the nearest road.

In Knoydart, there are no roads connected to other towns, no major supermarket, and in some places, even no cellphone signal. But there is, of course, a pub.

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The Old Forge is known as the remotest pub in mainland Britain.Credit...Andy Buchanan/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

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Visitors can reach Inverie via boats and ferries as well.Credit...Andy Buchanan/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

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A local on the winding trail to Inverie.Credit...Isabella Kwai/The New York Times

“You definitely need a pub at the end of that big trip,” said Stephanie Harris, business development manager at The Old Forge. “We try our best to make sure that folks have a good welcome when they get here.”


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